Friday, 28 February 2014

Designer/Trend Research

Looking at menswear has been really interesting and different from looking at women’s wear. Although menswear designs are not as extreme compared to women’s, the quality and silhouette of the garment are much more important. There is more focus on characteristics of the garments including things such as pockets and collars which, by exaggerating can be the emphasis of the design.
After given an article to read by Maxwell McBride Peterson on ‘The Diversity of Menswear’, it helped me to understand how the look of ‘street wear’ is changing by mixing elements of sportswear and work wear which I could see from Christopher Raeburn’s Autumn/ Winter 2014 collection below which has an edgy street style  feel to it. He also uses the classic parka shape and re-develops it for his own iconic design.
 
Christopher Raeburn








 
Designer E.Tautz uses sporting qualities but adds stripes and patterns to his simple but bold designs. In his Autumn/Winter 2014 many of his designs are oversized jackets but in proportion with the rest of it, combined with stylish oversized shoulders.
 
 E.Tautz




 
J.W Anderson was one of my favourite designers while researching as he seems to have experimented the most. He pushes the boundaries by creating garments inspired by women’s wear and isn’t afraid to be different.  His design signature is “Things that can be borrowed from a man to a woman and from a woman to a man.” http://www.londoncollections.co.uk/designers.aspx?catwalk=1) Below are some images of his Autumn/Winter 2014 collection.
 
J.W Anderson





 
 
I also came across Agi & Sam in the Autumn/Winter 2014/15 collections who have used monochrome prints which seem to be on trend for this season also used by designers such as Christopher Kane and Casely-Hayford. Agi & Sam’s collection uses layering techniques teamed with matching ankle length trousers. Their collection creates a bold statement and was very inspiring.
 
Agi & Sam
 




 
Hackett London, another designer at London Fashion Week caught my eye purely because I was aware of the designers adding sportswear alongside their formal, business wear as well as previously dressing the England Rugby team, so I was intrigued to see what their Autumn/Winter 2014/15 collection had to offer. I liked the fact they had a formal twist when adding their sportswear.
 
Hackett London







 


Deconstructed Jacket

In one of my design lessons, I had to use a men's jacket and deconstruct it to create different ideas and designs and to look at the different seams and lining that was used.

I took off pockets and added them to other sides of the jacket to create another look. I also used another jacket and combined them both to make a completely new one. It was good to take the lining off the jacket away as you could then see what was underneath and how everything had been placed such as the hidden pockets.


This is the jacket before it was deconstructed with all its details including buttons, button holes and pockets...






This is the jaclet without the lining. It was interesting to see how much work had taken place under the lining and how the lining is important in giving the jacket a neat finish hiding everything inside.


This lining when it was taken from the jacket...



Close up...





The lining placed on top of the jacket instead of inside to give a different look and effect...



Here, I have used a completley different jacket which has also been deconstructed and used it to create new arms...


New collar...


Pocket that has been added on...


This is a pocket from the front of the jacket which has been cut out and added to the back...


The lining from a different jacket added as a panel on the front of the original jacket with added pockets...



Again, the back pocket which I added...