Costing Sheet

Wool – 6.99 per metre x 3 = £20.97      

Stretch Jersey – 6.99 per metre x 1.5 = £10.49

Satin – 3.95 per metre x 2 = £7.90

Total cost of jacket = £39.36

Evaluation for Mens Jacket

Overall, I found the whole process of the men’s jacket quite difficult. Firstly, I had to design the jacket which I found quite interesting as I had never designed or made anything for men, so it was a good chance to explore their fashion. As the design had to relate to a type of sports racing, the research I was looking at was within the sport industry which initially I did not find very interesting.

The manufacturing of the jacket overall, I found quite easy as my first assignment was also a jacket so I had the basic knowledge and skills that were needed. The first problem I encountered was the type of material I needed. As it was for our ‘Made in Britain’ assignment, I had to choose natural fabrics or one that was similar. I found this hard as all the fabrics I initially wanted were all too expensive but I finally found a wool red fabric last minute which had luckily been reduced. I also bought black stretch jersey for the extra lapels on the jacket and black satin for the lining.

I found that when sewing the woollen fabric some parts were really difficult as the fabric frayed easily. Also as the stretch jersey was a stretchy fabric I had to sew over some parts I had already done, for example, the back lapel had stretched and became wider which meant I had to take it in slightly or the jacket would be too big to sew to the lining.

I really struggled when putting in the elbow patches as even though I had pinned it in place there was still a lot of excess material towards the end of the sewing which meant I had to unpick and start again. This was also similar when I was sewing the lining sleeves into the jacket lining, because the sleeves were a lot bigger, I was unpicking so I decided to add small pleats at the seam so the sleeves eased in.

When it came to adding the collar to the jacket I found the probably the easiest, unlike my first assignment were I had a leather collar, this collar is in the same material as the jacket and is a lot smaller so it was easier to manage when sewing it on.

Surprisingly, I found the bellow pockets quite easy to make. When I was creating samples I found it tricky to make the bellow pocket but I had no problems when it came to the final ones on my jacket. Unfortunately, because of the time I had to make the jacket I could only make 2 pockets opposed to the 3 which were on my design. If I was to make the jacket again, I would defiantly add the third pocket as I think the jacket looks too plain in the middle and the third pocket would of gave it that extra characteristic.

Another part of the jacket I did not add where the shoulder lapels. Again, because of the time I had to make the jacket I decided not to add these into the shoulders as I already found it difficult to sew the sleeves to the jacket, I wanted to make sure I had it completed on time and ready for the deadline. Similar to third pocket, I would defiantly add these if I were to make the jacket again as they were a really important part of my design which were a good link to car racing.

When I attached the lining to the jacket I decided to make the wrong side of the fabric visible as it was duller in colour which I felt was more masculine and suited to the style of my jacket. As this was the first time I had ever lined anything, I thought it went quite well for the first attempt.

Overall, I am happy with the end result and I am really pleased with how my skills are progressing. I am defiantly a lot more confident when it comes to making jackets and adding pockets and collars etc.

Sequence of Operations

Sequence of operations:

1. Cut out pattern pieces.
2. Begin with the bellow pockets by firstly sewing them together.
3. Sew both pockets to both front pieces of the jacket.
4. Add lining to the inside of the pocket flap then over lock the edges then sew the flaps above the pocket.
5. Cut out interfacing for the seams on the jacket to prevent them from fraying.
6. Sew the back lapel to one side of the back piece of the jacket.
7. Sew the other back piece to the other side of the back lapel then continue to sew the back seam together giving a full back piece.
8. Sew both the front jacket pieces to the back piece.
9. Interface the pieces for the collar.
10. Sew both collar pieces together giving the full collar.
11. Sew collar to the jacket.
12. Begin with the lining, sew the back piece and front pieces together.
13. Sew the arms of the lining together and sew into back and front piece of the lining with small pleats to help the sleeve piece fit into the sleeve hole.
14. Add interfacing to the facing.
15. Sew facing to the lining.
16. Sew the lining and the facing to the jacket on their wrong sides leaving a hole in the arm sleeve to pull the jacket through.
17. When it is fully sewn together, pull the jacket through the hole in the sleeve to run the jacket the right way.
18. Hand sew the hole in the lining of the sleeve together.
19. Place jacket on mannequin and pin into place the hem ready to steam.
20. Steam the whole jacket.
21. Sew together the shoulder flaps leaving a hole to pull them through so they are the right way, then hand sew the hole.
22. Add the shoulder flaps to the shoulders with fastenings.
23. Add the rest of the fastenings to the jacket.